Travelogue LXVII: Rheingau

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMarch 22, 2017 I’m back in Germany for just a couple bittersweet weeks, before the start of the new semester in California. I wanted to wait for a sunny day to climb into the vineyards on the Rhine to take pictures like the ones I took almost exactly 13 months ago, but waiting for clear weather in Germany in spring can be an entirely unproductive undertaking. So we went out anyway and walked into a misty gray morning, which had in the end its own sort of loveliness.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA


The vines have been pruned and trained along wires for the next growing season…

The vineyards on the Rhine are full of walking paths, zigzagging back and forth across the slopes. It is possible to hike the entire length of the Rheingau, sometimes through the vineyards and sometimes through the woods, dipping down into the villages in the valleys. The roads that crisscross the vineyards are primarily there for the winemakers, enabling them to ferry workers or small equipment high up the steep sides of the mountain. But they are also there for those who want to enjoy the beauty of the valley for its own sake, from curious tourists to serious hikers to locals out for a Sunday stroll. The paths are dotted with benches and the occasional gazebo at the particularly lovely spots.

And, because this is Germany after all, every once in a while there is a tiny self-serve kiosk where you can open a door and take out a bottle of local wine and glasses, pay by the honor system, and then sit and drink. It’s the perfect mix of nature and culture, I think: the gorgeousness of the Rhine River valley all around you, and then community over a shared bottle of wine. The last time we were here, an hour at a picnic table turned into two, and then three, and we shared stories and then walked with new-found friends all the way back to the village. It’s things like that that make me miss Germany.



Checking out the wine selection at one of the many self-serve stations along the way, although it was too cold and too early in the day for a drink.



Into the woods..

6 thoughts on “Travelogue LXVII: Rheingau

  1. Beautiful, although I am not familiar with “too cold, and too early in the day…” (JK) Glad you are having fun together.

  2. Wonderful — makes me very nostalgic. I used to love looking down onto the river from the top of the terraces. One place I enjoyed many times, quite a bit north of where you are here, was the Drachenfels. I had a fantasy of being a black dragon perched up on the ruin, lurking to swoop down and wreck the fat Rhine barges. Happily — or sadly — I never became one . . .
    You’re a gifted photographer. The two little studies with the broken rock surfaces and the new leaves with moss are alive with light and texture. I kept being pulled into them.
    Enjoy the rest of your stay — good health and moody Rhine skies to you both.

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